Friday, October 25, 2013

Crochet: Beginner Tutorial: HOW to crochet the Adult-Brimmed Hat

If you missed my post on my bday about my favorite crochet pattern, you can find it HERE. I would highly suggest opening the link and printing it out because I'll be attempting to help you step by step... with a TON of pictures. I now realize why no one does this- it takes forever to make lol. Not to mention quite a bit of terrible pictures as I was trying to use self timer on Manual settings hahaha. (Yeah, that was my camera laughing at me).

So, without further ado, I give you the pictured, step-by-step tutorial of how to make my Adult- Brimmed Hat....

MATERIALS
I am using a thicker weight yarn than the original pattern calls for because I really wanted to get this hat finished quickly. Don't worry about what I am using (because I know this pattern by heart), just make sure YOU are using a medium (4) yarn like "Vanna's Choice"or "Red Heart: Super Saver". I am also using an 'H' Crochet hook (same as the original pattern).

STANDARD CROCHET ABRV. for this pattern
sl st: slip stitch                                                                                 sc: single crochet
ch: chain                                                                                           dc: double crochet
 
 
CASTING ON USING A CROCHET HOOK
(A) Start with one end- it doesn't matter which end, HOWEVER, it is easier if you can find the yarn end that is attached to one of the sides as opposed to the middle (under the brand label)
(B) wrap the yarn BEHIND your pinky finger and under it
(C) wrap BEHIND your ring finger and IN FRONT of your middle finger
(D) go BEHIND your pointer finger and wrap the yarn in front

(E) grab the yarn end with your thumb and middle finger.
(F) grab the crochet hook with your right hand. Come IN FRONT of the yarn
(G) make the hook go in between the two strands and grab the yarn END with the pointer finger and thumb (lower strand); grab the yarn ATTACHED TO THE BALL OF YARN with the rest of your fingers (upper strand)
(H) move your thumb/pointer fingers up and bring the rest of your fingers forward so that the yarn twists.

(I) bring the hook back in front of the yarn and THROUGH the opening
(J) use the 'hook' part of the crochet hook to grab the uppermost yarn strand
(K) this is where I grab the yarn BEHIND the crochet hook using my thumb & pointer finger (it is to make it easier for the crochet hook to pass through)
(L) you can see the extra yarn being pulled down by my pointer finger

(M) pull the crochet hook through the opening (do NOT let go of the yarn, you're not done yet)
(N) a continuation of the pull
(O) you should still be holding on to the yarn END with your thumb/pointer finger. Don't forget that you should still have the other strand (that is attached to the ball) gripped using the rest of your fingers
(P) using your right hand, grab the BALL STRAND and pull DOWN while your thumb/pointer finger had the END STRAND and is pulling UP. This will secure a tight 'cast on'.


 
HOW TO START A CHAIN
 In every pattern, you start with a chain. I have yet to come across a pattern that does NOT call for a chain. However, patterns will use ROWS or ROUNDS after the beginning chain.
 
ROWS: when a pattern is straight across... typically a wash rag, blanket or afghan.
ROUNDS: when a pattern spirals... like a hat, sock, mitten, etc
(1) grab the middle of the BALL END of yarn and pull down
(2) go IN FRONT of the yarn strand held by your pointer finger, then UNDERNEATH that same strand, grabbing that strand with the 'hook' part of the crochet hook
(3) pull the yarn through the opening and UP
*******do not make this too tight or you will not be able to add rows easily*******
(4) repeat the process, this time using your thumb to grab the very beginning chain (ch)
 
 
This is the "heart" part of your chain. When you are adding chains, you start counting from your thumb and finger. The "hearts" are the outer-most part of your project.

This is the "spine" (as you might've guessed, these are just my terms for these things. It just helped me remember which part I hook through and which part I leave the hell alone). The "spine" is used in your 1st row or round. I call it a spine because the center part of each chain is raised up... when you go to make your first row/round, you will insert your hook through the spine. You count the number of "spines" FROM THE CROCHET HOOK.

in our pattern, you will chain 3 and make a double crochet by inserting the hook in the 3rd chain from the hook.
 
ROUND 1
 
(R1) shows where you want to insert the crochet hook (do not insert it yet)
(2) wrap your yarn around your crochet hook BACK to FRONT (we are making a double crochet- DC)
(3) insert your crochet hook into the 3rd "spine" from the hook (the closest one to your thumb). It is inserted from the right to the left.
(4) have your hook go BEHIND the yarn to wrap around it and 'hook' it, pulling it through JUST ONE OPENING

(5) now you should have 3 loops on your hook. Wrap your yarn around your crochet hook from BACK to FRONT
(6) shows the hook grabbing your yarn. You should have 4 loops now. Pull the yarn through the middle 2 loops
(7) showing you now have 2 loops on your hook
(8) wrap the yarn around the hook from BACK to FRONT and pull through the remaining loops.

YOU HAVE NOW SUCCESSFULLY COMPLETED 1 DOUBLE CROCHET. Go celebrate and have an Oreo.
 
 Complete 10 MORE double crochets in the same 'spine' that you just finished making your first DC. You will count the 3 chains in the very beginning as 1 double crochet. This gives you a total of 12 DC.
(9) Shows you completing the last DC in the same 'spine' as the rest
(10) grab the yarn END and place it on top of your 'heart'
(11) you will insert the crochet hook into the 2nd chain space (or you can think of it as the space to the RIGHT of your first 'real' double crochet- it's your call)
(12) showing you again where the crochet hook will enter

(13) placing the yarn END on top of the 'hearts'
(14) grab the yarn END and 'hearts' with your thumb and middle finger and the yarn BALL strand tightly wrapped around your pointer finger (for tension, not too tight though)
(15) wrap the yarn BALL strand around the crochet hook BACK to FRONT, then pull through all loops
(16) you have just made a slip stitch
 
once you sl st to the beg chain 3, you will ch 2
 
ROUND 2
 
(R2) in the same space as your chain 2, you will add a DC
(2) shows you your 1st 'real' DC of round 2
(3) when you get to the last 2 DC, you will use the last available space (which is directly under your original ch 2)
(4) sl st to the beg ch 2 (or if you prefer to call it- "that space directly to the right of your first 'real' DC"... either way)

R2: chain 2, dc in the same space, 2 dc in each dc space from the previous round and in the very last dc space. sl st to beg ch 2. You should now have 24 DC (including your chain 2). Chain 2 again.
 
ROUNDS 3-11
 
It is important to note that ONLY when you are increasing your DCs are you going to DC in the last DC space available. So for R6-11, the last DC space will remain untouched. You will always sl st to the beg ch, ch 2 and NEVER TURN YOUR WORK AROUND. You should have a grand total of 60 DC (including the ch 2)
 
 
 
*****I am posting this now and I will add the brimmed hat tomorrow afternoon because it's 2am and I have a 7-mo old and preschooler... so I am tired lol****

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